The buildings evolved into shacks and caravans as the train headed westward. The only sign that I’d crossed the boarder was new letters in the alphabet of the station names. 6 hours after leaving Berlin i was released into a maze of underground tunnels lined with 24 hour kebab joints and buera de exchanges. i escaped the underground city into rainy Warsaw and found a pleasant hostel not far from the station (Nathan’s villa hostel). With 2 nights booked i headed back into the city.

In search of some polish art i visited panstwowe muzeum etnograficzne w warszawie. The walls were greens and blues and it gave the art works a warmth not found in western European art galleries. It was warming to see a young couple introduce their toddler to his rich culture and history.

Next came the royal castle of Warsaw. On the outside it was a boring red brick building topped with copper green but inside it was breathe taking. rooms flowing with gold and mirrors, glowing white marble, art works as good as any I’d seen in western Europe.

after WWII Warsaw was left with 80% of its buildings destroyed and 50% of its population killed. Walking the streets of Warsaw today you’ll only find reminders of this horrible past in art works. Warsaw the most exciting city I’ve visited. The police have black eyes and the museums are crowded with young people interested in their history and culture.

Tomorrow i am heading to Auschwitz. I decided against a guided tour, i didn’t want someone else telling me what I’m seeing.